A Turkish Delight!

As soon as a visitor sets foot on Turkish soil, he is veritably setting foot on layers of history. The Turkish Empire, at one point of time, stretched from Budapest to Baghdad. From the Topkapi Palace of the Ottoman Emperors to Cappadocia's cave-cut churches, built centuries earlier by the Byzantine Christians, to hide from Islamic armies, to the intriguing Lycian ruins on the Mediterranean beaches, the Hittites built Hattusa's Stone Walls on the Anatolian Steppes, Turkey has history strewn everywhere.

The Republic of Turkey, is a transcontinental nation. That means that it spreads across two continents. It is a Eurasian country that extends from the Anatolian peninsula in Southwest Asia to the Balkan Peninsula in Southeast Europe. 8 countries, in Europe and Asia, surround Turkey. They are Greece, Bulgaria, Georgia, Armenia, Iran, Azerbaijan, Iraq and Syria. The Black Sea lies to the North of Turkey, the Aegean Sea to the west, and the Mediterranean Sea to the south. There is also the Sea of Marmara in Turkey, which is considered to be the dividing line between Europe and Asia. Because of the unique location, Turkey has the flavor of both Europe and Asia, and is a beautiful land worth visiting again and again.

The Byzantine and the Ottoman Empire have risen in the place, which, we call Turkey today. The architect of modern turkey is Mustafa. Kemal Ataturk. He came to power with the downfall of the six hundred year old Ottoman Empire after a three-year war of independence in 1923.After the devastation of First World War where, the Ottoman emperor had joined the Germans, and lost vast stretches of his empire, Kemal, brought together all the Turkish nationalists under his leadership and instilled a sense of national pride in them. The Turkish under his able leadership, pushed out the invading Greek forces from Anatolia or Asia Minor, Turkey was declared as a republic. He made Turkey into a secular, democratic, and constitutional republic and made sweeping changes in the existing political, social, linguistic and economic structures in Turkey.

As of today, Turkey is more inclined to the western world, while still holding on to eastern values. It is a curious mixture of the modern high rises, swanky shopping malls with the traditional bazaars and mosques. Modern Turks are usually extroverts and closely resemble their southern European neighbors. 

Turkey is the founding member of the United Nations, a member of North Atlantic Treaty Organization from 1952, member of the Organization of Islamic Conference, and since 2005 Turkey has been wanting to join the European Union. Turkey is a member of the G-20, the twenty largest economies in the world.

Ankara is the capital city of Turkey. Turkey is divided into 81 administrative provinces. These provinces are further divided into districts. There are a total of 923 districts in Turkey. The principal cities in Turkey are Istanbul, Ankara, Izmir, Konya, Bursa, Adana, Antalya, Mersin, Gaziantep, Trabzon etc It would be worth mentioning that the majority of Turkish population, that is about 67% are urban, and live in cities.

Turkey can be geographically divided into seven regions. Marmara, Aegean, Black Sea, Eastern Anatolia, South-Eastern Anatolia and the Mediterranean. The North-Western portion or the European section Of Turkey is called Eastern Thrace, and borders with Greece and Bulgaria. Anatolia or the Eastern part of Turkey is formed of a central plateau with narrow coastal plains. The Eastern region of Turkey is mountainous and rivers like Euphrates, Aras, Tigris, originate here. Mount Ararat, and Lake Van, are also situated here. Turkey, shares borders with four seas. The Mediterranean Sea, the Black Sea, The Aegean Sea and the Sea of Marmara, which, demarcates the border between Europe and Asia.

Turkey is magnificent, where it meets the Mediterranean and Aegean Seas. This is a more Western face of Turkey, and is more European. Izmir is the third largest city of Turkey and is the capital city of the Province of Izmir. It is a city, which is based on its Aegean Coast. Izmir is situated on the Gulf of Izmir, which is connected to the Aegean Sea. There are about 4 million people living in the city. It is a very important city in terms of its strategic location, and is the seat of North Atlantic Treaty Organization’s command for land forces in Southeastern Europe. It is also a very big industrial hub and is the production center for cement, dyes, soaps, textiles, tobacco etc. Izmir is famous for many landmarks like Agora and the ancient Aqueducts of Kizilcullu. 50 kilometers to the south of Izmir lie the famous ruins of Ephesus .The famous city of Troy is said to have been located quite close to Izmir.           

Ephesus is the ancient city of ancient Anatolia, which owing to its strategic location, for its trade routes between Asia and Europe. It connected the Mediterranean Sea to Asia Minor. It was a very rich city, and was renowned for its Temple of Artemis (Diana), which was later burned down. The magnificent ruins of Ephesus, yields a beautiful theatre, capable of seating 25,000 people. There is also a very impressive bath, between the theatre and the port, which is worth visiting. In Ephesus is located, one of seven of the oldest churches in Asia. Ephesus also had the most advanced aqueduct systems of its time, something that one would marvel at.  It also had a well-stocked library, which was later razed to the ground by the Goths. Meryemana is a city, which is South of Ephesus. Here many people come for pilgrimage. That is because, it is claimed by early Christianity, that the tomb of Virgin Mary, mother of Jesus is located here.       

The Taurus Mountains separate the Mediterranean Coast of Turkey from Anatolia. The Mediterranean coast of Turkey can boast of one of the best beaches in the world, quaint bazaars, selling Turkish delicacies and carpets as well as comfortable resorts perched on rocky cliff-sides, that offers the most panoramic view of the blue Mediterranean or the picturesque fishing villages that offers perfectly romantic getaways are all highlights of the Mediterranean Coast of Turkey. Cities and towns worth visiting on this coast are Marmaris, Antalya, Adana and Mersin. This region is known as the Turkish Riviera. Though the beaches and resorts are the highlight of the Turkish Riviera. However, the splendor of the cities and the ruins of Greek, Roman, Arab, Seljuk, Armenian, Crusader, and Byzantine origin are a bonus worth reckoning.

 

The weather is mainly hot in the Mediterranean region of Turkey. Together with that climate, the sun-kissed beaches of the Mediterranean Coast, provides for a variety of entertainment for tourists of all budget. The weather and the fertile soil is very conducive for the growth of citrus fruits, nuts, figs, olives, barley etc.  

Kebabs, carpets, bazaars are what one stereotypes, Turkey, with....but one has to visit Turkey to get a real feel about its diversity.

Turkey can be called as a cultural and historical bridge between Europe and Asia. It is steeped in history and bears the legacy of great civilizations and empires like the Roman, Byzantine, Persian, Ottoman etc. This curious amalgamation of cultures of various flavors, have made Turkey a tourist destination with a difference. This is a country, where, a traveler can expect to find surprises at every bend of the road.  Added to this, Turkey has also been endowed with stunning natural beauty. From the Taurus mountains between Anatolia and Mediterranean region, the varied coastlines of the Black Sea, the Sea of Marmara, the Aegean Sea and the Mediterranean Sea, to the arid Anatolia plateau to name only a few, Turkey has a holiday destination suited to every palate.

Turkey is almost encircled on all its sides by a number of seas. That is why it has miles upon miles of uninterrupted coastlines, with different flavors. Some of them are rocky and ragged, some mountainous with just a narrow strip of coastline, some with cliffs overhanging the beaches, while others with undulating, pristine yellow beaches, and the azure blue waters offering a spectacular view. Together with the beaches, the coastal hamlets, the fishing villages, the byways of small coastal towns offering mouth-watering dishes, the colorful bazaars, where one can browse for carpets and other Turkish specialties, these coastal areas can also boast of a perfect climate. This total package of sea, beaches, bazaars, mountain-sides, historic places, tempting climate and affordable stay have made Turkey into a tourist hot-spot that it is today.

Holidays as well as holiday rentals in Turkey are centered in and around the Mediterranean Sea coast, the Aegean Sea Coast and the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea. Most of the holiday rentals are spread across the Mediterranean Sea coast. These Holiday Rentals offer myriad facilities, like Spa, Jacuzzi, Outdoor Pool and a variety of water sports. Self-catering services are also on offer. Marmaris, Fethiye, Alanya, Calis, Gundogan, Dalyan, Ovacik, Kalkan, are just some of the places, where the Villas are located, which, are given out on rental.

Holiday apartments, chalets, cottages, studios and villas, authentic Turkish farmhouses in village resorts, apartments in cities like Istanbul, Ankara on rental, suiting every pocket and budget, are a rage in Turkey. That is maybe because, tourists find them more affordable, comfortable, homely and convenient, than hotels with star ratings. These holiday villas and apartments, provide for an ideal holiday base, from where, tourists can tour immediate locales and even further destinations in order to have a glimpse into the rich history and culture of Turkey or to relax and laze around and have a sunshine-filled vacation in pristine and peaceful surroundings.

Tour operators arrange for many types of tours like weekend getaways, fishing tours, coastal trek tours, biblical tours, shore excursions from specific harbors etc. Shore excursions are very popular with tourists wanting to take short trips to small islets, mountain coves near the shore, or the butterfly valley in Oludeniz, which, is unique with a picturesque valley and lagoon, and can be reached only by a boat ride.

A Southern Sojourn

As far as I can recollect, the year was, 2005, the month was December, however we had left behind the nip in the air, in Kolkata. It was the last phase of our South India trip. we were a motley group of family and friends, ages ranging from 2, (that of my daughter) to 65, (that of my father). We were in the last lap of our South India trip. We had traveled from Howrah to Chennai, in Coromondal Express. Chennai greeted us with rains in December. A local of Chennai, had informed us that there were three seasons in Chennai - HOT, HOTTER and HOTTEST, and we were pleasantly surprised at the pleasantness of the weather. We reached the TTDC hotel, which was a statement in antiquity itself. The plaster was off most of the walls, and water was seeping in but the lady at reception, with the fragrance of jasmine on her thick oiled hair comforted us with the promise of 'hot kafi'.

After the usual tourist rounds at Marina Beach, its idly stands and balloons we went to Fort St. George, My son, who was all of 10 years at that time, thoroughly enjoyed taking his photo beside the huge cannon. The ladies in our group, including me, had our one-point destination etched out in our minds...Nalli, Kumaran and Pothys and we were in no mood to be distracted from our focus. So after packing off the boys and the kids, to the hotel, we made a headway to our Moksh.

The next evening, saw us boarding the Nilgiri express, our destination -Mettupalayam, the gateway to Ooty, in expectation of cooler climes. Early next morning, saw us at Mettupalayam station. The early morning mist, the steam from the blue Nilgiri Passenger train, the inviting aroma of hot coffee, the blue mountains beckoning us, the quaint and very clean platform with almost a doll-house like feel, and the much awaited bite in the air, made me fall in love with the place, instantly.

I loved Ooty from the first glimpse that I had of it. It is like any other British Summer destinations in India, but had retained its native flavor. The Ooty Botanical Gardens, The Ooty Lake and the Doddabetta peak ,the highest peak in the Nilgiris, and its telescope, which provided a 180 degree view of the Nilgiris captured
 my interest. However, the feeling that stuck on to my senses were those of the musty smell of the British era "Chellaram" shop, which sold from toothpaste to tobacco and toys, as well as home-made chocolates, the heaps of spices like cardamom, and black pepper lying on the road, waiting to be sold, the shops selling different oils, like clove oil, cardamom oil, the rolling tea gardens on the way to Coonnor, where I had the tastiest and sweetest pineapple, that I have ever had in my life and in Sim's Park where, there were many 'Rudraksh' trees. To put it briefly, I must say, that Ooty, has the power to seduce every sense in an individual.

Our next stop was Madurai, the temple city. on the banks of the river Vaigai. The Cultural Capital of Tamil Nadu, once the capital city of the great Pandya rulers, boasts of the World-Renowned Meenakshi Amman Temple.The temple complex is dedicated to Lord Sundareshwara, as Shiva is known here, and his consort Parvati, or Meenakshi. The temple complex has huge water tanks, and is resplendant with mighty stone pillars and magnificient Gopurams. The intricate figures carved out on the pillars and the gopurams depicted scenes from our epics and were an array of colors. Each figure, is painted in a different color, suited to that character. Madurai is a great place to bargain for bell-metal lamps and figurines.

One frivolous/important observation, I must add in here. each of the places, that I visited in TamilNadu, offers different variants of Dosa, inherent to that place.

We took the Vaigai Express from Madurai to Villupuram. We reached, Villupuram, when, dawn was breaking, it was still quite dark, and we had to wake up an old porter to help us carry our luggage. As we crossed the tracks, and exited the station, I noticed a small temple, decorated with small electric bulbs, constant chanting of shlokas, in a deep baritone, made me feel very peaceful at that hour, when the world was still sleeping. Fragrance of jasmine flowers and agarbatti was seeping into my senses. It was an ethereal feeling as we took a tempo traveller to 'Matri Sharanam" the rest house of the Pondicherry Aurobindo Ashram.

Written by: Jayeeta Sinha Roy

Photos: Jayeeta Sinha Roy

Madarihaat/ Totopara

A Toto Village

Barodabri is a small locality within Madarihaat subdivision of Jalpaiguri in North Bengal. Madarihaat is the gateway to the Jaldapara Wild Life Reserve, home to about 50 one-horned rhinos, and this is the place, where the West Bengal forest department has built a forest bungalow.I visited this area around the first week of August, But I think that the best time to visit this place, is late September till February, as on other times as the rains hinder the wildlife sightings, and the reserve is closed from 15th June to 14th September.

The village School

There are a sprinkling of forest dept and tourism dept bungalows in the upper Dooars region, spreading across the Coochbehar and Alipurduar districts. Another attraction of this place is the showcase of the lifestyle of the indigeneous Indo-Bhutanese tribe called the totos, found in a small enclave called Totopara, about 22 kms from Madarihaat. Anthropologists are all agreed on the view that the culture and the lifestyle as well as the language of the Totos are absolutely unique to them. They are distinctly different from the other tribes, of that area, namely the rajbanshis, which is the largest and the koch, which is of tibeto burmese origin and is presently scattered around Assam and Tripura, or the mech.

The entire Toto population is spread across 6 villages, known as Mitragaon, Subbagaon, Pujagaon, Dhumchigaon, Mandalgaon and Panchayatline(gaon). The main source of income for these people is agriculture. Pineapple, betelnut and ginger is grown in abundance. They are mainly animistic, they worship nature.Mawa or wine and roti is their staple diet.

Dry bed of the river Torsha

However, the Toto tribe is severely endangered now owing to their marriage practice. They are endogamous, meaning that they marry within their tribe. This has led to genetic defects in children born out of these marriages, mainly thallasemia. The elders in the tribe are slowly becoming aware of the pitfalls of this endogamous system of marriage, and hopefully will bring about a change in their norms inorder to save the tribe from extiction. The Totos generally do not believe in divorce and live together during their engaged period to find out whether they are compatible or not as partners. If not, they go their separate ways, without much hue or cry.

Cherrapunji Pics

 
 

Umiam/Barapani ~ Cherrapunji

A very off the beaten track place, that I wanted to write about is one endowed with extreme natural beauty. The name of the place is Umiam, about 16 kms from a oft visited tourist spot, Shillong. This place is known as the Barapani by the locals and is located in the Ri-bhoi district of Meghalaya.I visited this place on the 3rd of December 2007, and was mesmerised by the endless serpentine lake, entwining the foothills of the Khasi hills.

The view of the lake from the Orchid Lake Resort, run by the Meghalaya Govt is nothing short of gorgeous. The slopes, leading down to the shores are heavily guarded by hefty pine trees and myriad flower shrubs, mostly those of what the locals call the chinese rose, and which I later discovered to be giant 'gandharaj' flowers. These are white in colour and emanates a sharp perfume, especially at night, which sort of numbs one's senses. I can keep on going back to that resort in the khasi hills if only to experience the peace evolving out of the moonlight shimmering on the Umiam, the hypnotizing smell of these 'Raat Ki Rani flowers and the feeling of 'there is no tomorrow'.

The shadows of the mountains on the waters of the lake, impart a serenity and peace to the place which is beyond articulation. Another added attraction is the water sports complex near the Lake Resort.

The 55 km drive from Shillong to Cherrapunji, touted as the wettest place on the earth, till it gave up its position to Mawsynram was comfortable.The rolling meadows offered a feast for the eyes. However, the showstopper was the dry, barren landscape of Cherrapunji. A farcry from the lushness and the greenery that my mind's eye had envisaged. The Ramkrishna Mission and the Noh kalikai falls are the only places worth visiting in Sohra. This is the name by which the locals recognize Cherrapunji.